CLIMBING MAGAZINE REVIEWS  

Bufo CLIMBING SHOES

Rock shoes are about the most important weaponry in the gravity battle, and I've often found it worth the extra money to buy top-of-the-line models. So I was skeptical to believe that a newcomer to the U.S. market, Bufo, could provide good shoes at half the price of other brands. But, after several months of climbing in these shoes on granite, limestone, and plastic, I've come to realize that you don't always get what you pay for. Sometimes you get more.

At $79, the Fly is the least expensive shoe in the lineup. This clean slipper uses an elastic strap over the arch, securing the foot in the shoe. It fits medium to wide feet, and accommodated my broad forefoot just right. The shoe has a thin midsole, adding a welcome touch of stiffness and boosting the shoe's face-climbing performance. But it's still plenty flexible for toeing into finger cracks or smearing. With its combination of wide fit and medium stiffness, the Fly was my favorite model.

The Spider ($79) is a slipper with two Velcro closures. It fits narrower than the Fly, has a more pointed toe, and has no midsole, creating a soft, grabby shoe. For those accustomed to a soft slipper, this shoe excels on smears, cracks, and overhangs. Edging performance is limited due to the lack of midsole. I'd recommend this model over the Fly for people with narrow feet.

The Pharoah ($85) lace-up shoe is a stretchy, cambered shoe requiring a tight fit to achieve good toe power. I enjoyed using these shoes in the gym and on limestone, as the precise, grabby toe stuck to the smallest of holds. A thin midsole, similar to the Fly's, adds a touch of support for edging. Because of the need for bent toes with this shoe, it's best used for one-pitch sport routes or bouldering.

I was surprised by the overall craftsmanship on Bufo shoes. The 4mm Gibon-rubber soles are filed clean against the rand, the uppers are durable enough to be sized tightly without tearing, and the stitching is generally clean except for a skin-scratching heel-pull tab I noticed on the Fly. Most importantly, I found the rubber to be as sticky as other rubbers on the market. For the newcomer to the sport or those who want more bang for their buck, these three shoes are worth a serious look.

-- Randi Lavelle